China Travel Forum

[Owen]

We are heading for China and Asia, May 20. We would like to do some actual hiking on the Wall, take a lunch and make the most of 1 day. Originally we had planned to go to Muytianyu but then read that there is only 1 kilometer and then a barrier.
We are now thinking of doing Jinshanling to Simatai. From what I have gathered so far it is a 7 mile hike that could take from as little as 3-4 hours to 7 hours (don't know which one is right or if there is a happy medium.) As well I have been unable to get a true sense to the level of difficulty.
We are a 50+ couple who does a lot of walking and hiking but mountain climbers we are not.
We will book a driver from Beijing to drop us off and meet us at the other end so need to have a better feel for how long it will take.
Any other insights appreciated.

[Jasper]

I took this hike at no particular speed, pausing to chat with others met on the way, stopping for photos and a snack, etc., and it took me three hours. I imagine the estimates of seven hours include total travelling time to and from Beijing.

The walk begins with a substantial section which has been completely rebuilt, as with all other well-known sections close to Beijing. The Wall always heads for the highest point, even if that involves zig-zagging and turning back on itself, so there are usually drops and climbs between each tower, but here there are also sections which run along ridges, and at certain points rows of towers can be seen stretching into the distance in both directions. The rebuilt sections are quickly left behind, and the walk is then on uneven, broken up brick, and occasionally on the earthen core where the top and one side of the wall have fallen away. There are some points where the Wall climbs very steeply for short distances. Hands are used not actually to haul oneself up, but simply because the surface is so close to one's face. But it's also possible to take short cuts and avoid the more difficult sections--tracks in the grass can easily be seen from on the Wall, and the point at which you scramble down and scramble up again, sometime by standing on a small pile of Wall material, are obvious. When I was last there, someone had marked chalk arrows to send walkers in the right direction, but the way to go is obvious, and these might only stop you from taking short detours up spurs to lookout points, which you might well want to go and see anyway.

As you approach Simatai you may be charged to cross a chain bridge, but you can avoid that by turning right beforehand if you don't want to go on to do the very steep climb up there. But on arriving at the Simatai entrance you may meet attempts to charge you a second time. If you arrive mid-afternoon, however, they've all given up and gone home. But Simatai and Jinshanling are administered by two different work units, each wanting its fee.

The biggest nuisance at this section of Wall are the peasant souvenir sellers who, once they spot you, will dog you for the whole journey. There's nothing to do buy simply ignore them. If you buy one of their overpriced bottles of water or souvenirs they simply dog you all the more. Starting at Jinshanling gives you a greater chance of some peace and quiet. Start at Simatai and you'll be accompanies for the whole journey.

In late October the days should still be warm and bright, but a combination of the low sun and the pollution make for a pleasant yellowness, and timing your walk for the first half of the afternoon will give you light for superb photography of the side-lit wall draped across the high ground. Also there's some display of colour by the local trees, and the persimmons will still be glowing in the bare branches of orchards in the area. You may see them being harvested by someone with a sharp knife on a broom handle reaching up, and someone else below catching the falling fruit in an apron. Look, too, as you pass the Miyun reservoir on the way, for fishermen who have dragged their boats to the side of the road, filled them with water, and have signs up which say 'huo yu' ('live fish'). The fish are swimming around inside the boats.