Tomur Feng of 7453 meters
above sea level, means " Iron Mountain" in Uygur
language. At 80.1 E and 42.0 N, it is situated in Xinjiang
Uygur Autonomous Region and proves to be the highest peak
in the section of Tianshan in China while the Tianshan Mountains,
2500 kilometers in length from the east to west, traverses
the whole of Kazakhstan and stretches to the center of Xinjiang
Uygur Autonomous Region in China.
With 15 high peaks over 6000 meters and
5 over 6800 meters around it, Tomur Feng is a place of clustering
peaks in the Tianshan Mountains. Highly developed, some 509
glaciers here of various kinds total an area of 2746.32 square
kilometers and 350.000.000 cubic meters of water reserve,
which serves as important water resources in the vast expanse
of both the south and north Tianshan.
Deep in the inland, far away from the oceans,
under the strong effect of the westerly wind in high altitudes
and protected by screens of mountains, the south and north
slopes differ in climate, while with the humid north slope
and the south arid, the Tomur Feng area often undergoes myriad's
of weather changes in the twinkling of an eye--- showers,
a blast of strong wind and occasional hailstones. At an altitude
if over 4500 meters, the temperature remains below -0C all
the year round with the lowest of over -40 C. Only between
the months of July and August can the temperature rise to
about -18 C, which proves to be a period of high temperature
in a year. A cycle of 5 to 6 fine days favors a concentrated
effort of mountain climbing.
Five ridges are on Tomur Feng --- the west
ridge, the east ridge, the southeast ridge, the southwest
ridge and the north ridge. To the north of the north ridge
stands the second highest peak in Tianshan Mountains--- Khan
Tengri, which is at a straight-line distance of about 20 kilometers
away from Tomur Feng.
With its top like the spine of a fish, the
giant, dangerous and steep Tomur Feng is covered by uninterrupted
snow and often affected by the harsh climate. Glaciers can
be found everywhere in abundance, and the open and hidden
crevasses are so deep as to be immeasurable. The natural barriers
of the broken precipices, the difficulties caused by the crayons,
frequent snow and ice avalanches and rolling rocks; all pose
a serious threat to the mountaineers.
In 1956, the former Soviet Expedition ascended
the summit of Tomur Feng from the North Slope along the northwest
wall. In July 1977, Liu Dayi and 26 others from China's Science
and Investigation of Mountaineering conquered Tomur from the
south slope along the southeast slope ridge. In 1977, however,
the camp site, set up at 5800 meters above sea level by the
Chinese Mountaineering Team, was leveled to the ground by
a snow avalanche, but fortunately nobody was in it. Moreover,
in 1986, the Japanese Women's team met with three snow avalanches
in two days. In short, the wild havoc of snow avalanches constitutes
the greatest barrier for the mountaineers.
The route line to the mountain. Travel by
air or by bus from the City of Urumqi to Aksu and up northward
to Wensu. After going on to Taglak, walk northward along the
Qongtailan valley to the south slope of Tomur Feng, where
the mountaineering base camp site may be put up at one end
of the Qontailan Glacier, measuring 3200 meters above sea
level. Another way to the mountain is to advance for 60 kilometers
from Wens to Pochenzi. After that, trudge for 40 kilometers
northward along the Muerte River valley to Gaibieliqi from
which you can climb Khan Tengri and Xuelian Feng (Snow-lotus
Peak). |