Tomur Peak

About Tomor Peak, Climbing and Trekking information of Tomor Peak.
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Tomur Peak

Tomur Feng of 7453 meters above sea level, means " Iron Mountain" in Uygur language. At 80.1 E and 42.0 N, it is situated in Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region and proves to be the highest peak in the section of Tianshan in China while the Tianshan Mountains, 2500 kilometers in length from the east to west, traverses the whole of Kazakhstan and stretches to the center of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region in China.

With 15 high peaks over 6000 meters and 5 over 6800 meters around it, Tomur Feng is a place of clustering peaks in the Tianshan Mountains. Highly developed, some 509 glaciers here of various kinds total an area of 2746.32 square kilometers and 350.000.000 cubic meters of water reserve, which serves as important water resources in the vast expanse of both the south and north Tianshan.

Deep in the inland, far away from the oceans, under the strong effect of the westerly wind in high altitudes and protected by screens of mountains, the south and north slopes differ in climate, while with the humid north slope and the south arid, the Tomur Feng area often undergoes myriad's of weather changes in the twinkling of an eye--- showers, a blast of strong wind and occasional hailstones. At an altitude if over 4500 meters, the temperature remains below -0C all the year round with the lowest of over -40 C. Only between the months of July and August can the temperature rise to about -18 C, which proves to be a period of high temperature in a year. A cycle of 5 to 6 fine days favors a concentrated effort of mountain climbing.

Five ridges are on Tomur Feng --- the west ridge, the east ridge, the southeast ridge, the southwest ridge and the north ridge. To the north of the north ridge stands the second highest peak in Tianshan Mountains--- Khan Tengri, which is at a straight-line distance of about 20 kilometers away from Tomur Feng.

With its top like the spine of a fish, the giant, dangerous and steep Tomur Feng is covered by uninterrupted snow and often affected by the harsh climate. Glaciers can be found everywhere in abundance, and the open and hidden crevasses are so deep as to be immeasurable. The natural barriers of the broken precipices, the difficulties caused by the crayons, frequent snow and ice avalanches and rolling rocks; all pose a serious threat to the mountaineers.

In 1956, the former Soviet Expedition ascended the summit of Tomur Feng from the North Slope along the northwest wall. In July 1977, Liu Dayi and 26 others from China's Science and Investigation of Mountaineering conquered Tomur from the south slope along the southeast slope ridge. In 1977, however, the camp site, set up at 5800 meters above sea level by the Chinese Mountaineering Team, was leveled to the ground by a snow avalanche, but fortunately nobody was in it. Moreover, in 1986, the Japanese Women's team met with three snow avalanches in two days. In short, the wild havoc of snow avalanches constitutes the greatest barrier for the mountaineers.

The route line to the mountain. Travel by air or by bus from the City of Urumqi to Aksu and up northward to Wensu. After going on to Taglak, walk northward along the Qongtailan valley to the south slope of Tomur Feng, where the mountaineering base camp site may be put up at one end of the Qontailan Glacier, measuring 3200 meters above sea level. Another way to the mountain is to advance for 60 kilometers from Wens to Pochenzi. After that, trudge for 40 kilometers northward along the Muerte River valley to Gaibieliqi from which you can climb Khan Tengri and Xuelian Feng (Snow-lotus Peak).

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