| Background
information of Muztagh-ata |
| Basic
Facts |
| Muztagh-ata |
| Height: |
7546
meter |
| Range: |
Western
Kunlun |
| Country: |
Xinjiang
Autonomous Region, China |
| Latitude/Longitude: |
38`17
N / 75`07 E |
| Period: |
First
group, 18 June to 12 July 2002
Second group, 16 July to 9 August 2002 |
| Route: |
West
face, normal route |
| Difficulty: |
Non
technical climb, Russian grade 5a. Terrain: ice and
snow |
| For
who: |
Mountaineers
starting their high altitude career |
| Number
of high camps: |
3 |
| Starting/Ending
point: |
Kashgar,
Xinjiang, China |
|
| Further
Information |
| Muztagh
Ata (7546 m.) is the second summit of Tian-Shan according to
the altitude and situated in Kun-Lun range on the territory
of Sinzyan national region in China. In local languages Muztagh
Ata means "Ice Mountain`s Father" The huge snow mountain-mass
raised above the Karakul Lake attracts the mountaineers of the
whole world. The climbing way on the top is not difficult technically
with the slopes of 25-30 degrees steepness though demands a
high physical level of the alpinists. It gives good possibilities
to ascent to the top. Muztagh Ata is one of the perfect mountains
for skiing after ascent.First tries to climb up Muztagh-Ata
were made in 1894 by Swedish geographist Sven
Hedin from the West. In two his attempts he reached the
same altitude of 6300 m. In 1947 famous British climbers E.
Shipton and H. Tilman together with sirdar Gyalzen Sherpa could
arrive to the summit dome at some 7000 m. The first historic
ascent of the Muztagh-Ata summit had been realized in 1956 by
Soviet-China expedition led by Eugene
Beletsky following the route outlined by Hedin. The way
is not difficult technically and good for not very competent
mountaineers. But because of high altitudes above the sea level
all along the route participants should be well prepared physically.
|
| Description
of the ascent routes |
| Section
1. Base Camp ( 4450 m ) - Camp 5200 m. Walking on a good
path on the edge of a rocky ridge. Above 5000m the ridge may
be covered by snow. Starting with a small campsite at 4800 m
the ascent may be continued by ski in a large snow couloir on
the right. Section
2. Camp 5200m - Camp 6200 m. Ascent on a snow slope up
to a small plateau at 5400m. Then turn left to a snow/ice
crest. On the left side of the crest up to the altitude of
5600m. Here a zone of big crevasses begins. Cross the zone
following a big snow gully in its middle part and then continue
the ascent on a steep snow slope up to a wide snow ridge on
altitude close to 6000m. Turn left and go along the ridge
to a small snow basin on 6200m.
Section
3. Camp 6200m - Camp 6800 m. On right slope of the basin
and then on wide and not steep snow fields with several rises.
Section
4. Camp 6800m - Summit (7546m)Ascent on wide snow slopes.
|
| knowledge
to Climing |
| Climbing
Dictionary
Equipment
List
|
| Muztagh
ata Links |
Muztagh
ata Summit Log
Muztagh
Ata and Karakoram Highway
Muztagh
ata by bike
Images
of Muztagh ata
Photo: view
of Muztagh-Ata from the West, route of the ascent.
Route of the ascent (schematic).
Mustagh
Ata: Biking to a World Record
A Tale of Adventure
to The Roof of the World |
