The
Hunanese have long been known for temperaments
that, similar to their cuisine, are salty and
fiery.
Changsha, as the province's largest city
and now its capital, has long held such characters
within its "walls", making it an area
that has never been known for stability. The city of Changsha
is most famous for the inhabitants who have spent
time here, many of them political separatists
or dissidents in their time, and for the educational
institutions that the area has housed. The history
of Changsha is therefore very much marked by the
suppression and violent retribution of its often
well educated inhabitants.
Changsha city first came into being as a small town,
over 3000 years ago, when it was known as Qinyang,
and was initially established for its excellent
location.
Lying on the banks of the Xiang River
(Xiang jiang), a tributary of China's "snaking
dragon", the Yangtse (Chang jiang), and surrounded
by the most fertile of the Hunan plains, the town
was to flourish through river trade and the production
of bountiful crops. By the Warring States Period
(475-221 BC), the city had grown enough to become
the southern, and main, capital of the Chu Kingdom,
when the city was renamed Chu. Infractions and
rebellions were rife in this period (the fiery
Hunanese again) and it was not until the Qin Dynasty
(221-206 BC), swept through here, that the Changsha
returned to any form of stability. The Qin were
to name the city Changsha, literally Long Sands,
after the Island of Oranges (Juzi zhou), a long
sandy spit that dominates the river in this section.
For much of the rest of its ancient history Changsha was to remain fairly unstable, although prosperous.
It became known as an educational center, most
notably after the famous Song Dynasty (960-1279)
Yuelu Academy was established. This academy, that
produced such famous figures as the great Chinese
thinker Zhu Xi, who was a founding father of the
then modern Imperial examinations, was to become
the leading school for Imperial scholars. This
site can still be visited. In 1664, Changsha was
named provincial capital.
The modern era has seen vast changes. The Treaty
of Shanghai (1903) opened the city to foreign
trade and both Europeans and Americans were to
swarm in, erecting educational institutions, houses,
churches and factories. This was nearing the end
of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), and the crumbling
signs of all ending Chinese dynasties was soon
to follow. The fiery Hunanese were again to raise
their heads, in a peasant uprising that was to
destroy much of the Changsha city. By the time things settled
down again it was the turn of the Civil and Anti-Japanese
War instability to test the Changsha, and Nationalist
(Guomindang) troops were happy to oblige by destruction
of most of what was left.
Nowadays, the most famous of the fiery Hunanese,
is the both beloved and reviled leader of the
revolution, Chairman Mao Zedong. The chairman
spent time in the Changsha city during a period between
1911, at the fall of the Qing empire, and 1923,
when he was driven from the city for his political
associations. The Chairman still dominates the
sights of this capital, a city (population around
6 million), that is now somewhat tidier and radically
changed from its past. Bisected unevenly by the
slow-flowing Xiang River, with the center of the
Changsha city, the railway station, bus station and most
of the sights to the east, modern day Changsha
is still worth spending a day or so in, if you
are at all interested in the new communist era.
The fiery Hunanese are surprisingly friendly when
you get to know them, and the chance to wander
in Chairman Mao's footsteps has to be somewhat
tempting.