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Genghis
Khan's Mausoleum (Chengjisihan ling), built in 1954,
is the biggest attraction in this part of Inner Mongolia.
Despite disputes over its authenticity, the Mausoleum
attracts thousands of visitors every month, and has
been elevated to the status of a holy site.
The
truth surrounding the death and subsequent burial
of Genghis Khan is at present shrouded in mystery.
It is known that Genghis was killed in a nearby area
and that the people charged with burying and guarding
the warlord were later also to move here. Many believe
that the real tomb is in fact to be found in the Republic
of Mongolia, somewhere in the mountains around Ulan
Bator. There is a legend that says that the cortege
that were delivering the body to the north, were stuck
in mud near the town of Dongsheng, and so decided
to bury him on the spot, although this is possibly
just Chinese propaganda...
Either
way the Chinese have gone to great lengths to protect
both the legend and the relics within the tomb. During
World War II, the Japanese attempted to continue extending
their influence in northern China by expanding their
Manchukuo Puppet State into the Inner & Outer
Mongolian regions. The Japanese were hoping, with
both the control of this tomb and a very tenuous legend
that stated that Genghis had come from over the sea
(possibly Japan), to be welcomed by the Mongolians.
The Chinese and Mongolians were quick however, and
managed to move much of the tomb's relics to Qinghai.
The Japanese took Inner Mongolia, but were repulsed
by a joint Mongol-Soviet force from taking Outer Mongolia
in 1939.
With
the communist proclamation of victory in 1950, the
relics were returned to this area, and were eventually
housed in the mausoleum that was completed in 1954.
The building was seriously destroyed by Red Guards
in the Cultural Revolution (1966-76), and after many
years restoration, the site now looks extremely modern.
The main structure is of three Mongolian-yurt-like
halls, each interlinked with corridors. The halls
are filled with various mementos to the bygone era
of Mongolian dominance, with the Khan's war clothing,
various ceremonial yurts that are supposedly filled
with the biers of Khan and his relatives, altars,
frescoes depicting the warlord and his horse-drawn
army and various Mongolian calligraphy works. There
is also a small museum near the ticket office.
Ceremonies
dedicated to Genghis Khan and the cult that has grown
up around him take place four times a year, in the
third, fifth, ninth and tenth lunar months (the lunar
months are usually about one to one and a half months
later than the Gregorian calendar, although you will
need to ask locally near the time). The ceremonies
are attended by various Mongol monks, some from the
Republic of Mongolia, and various peoples of the Daur
Minority. Most of the ceremony takes place in the
main hall, that houses a five meter-high statue of
Genghis, and rites include the burning of butter lamps,
chanting from "holy" Mongolian scriptures
and the presentation of a whole roast lamb. Outside
Mongolians take part in traditional horse racing,
archery, and wrestling, as a means of showing respect
to their powerful ancestor.
How
to get there: There are a few ways to get to the mausoleum.
From Baotou buses leave the long distance bus station
for Dongsheng (RMB17, 3&1/2hrs.). From Dongsheng
buses then run on to the Mausoleum (RMB8, 1&1/2
hrs.). There are only a few Dongsheng-Mausoleum buses
a day so it is worth getting to Dongsheng before noon.
If you miss these buses then it is possible to catch
a bus to Yijin huoluo qi, 25km from the Mausoleum
and then catch a minibus on from there. It is also
possible to catch the bus from Baotou to Yulin City
in Shaanxi, getting off at the Mausoleum (RMB25, 5hrs.).
Return is best done via Dongsheng. Minibuses can be
flagged down from the Mausoleum. From Dongsheng the
last bus back to Baotou departs at 8pm.
Hotels: There are a number of places to stay in Dongsheng.
Cheapest of the lot is the Ih Ju League Hotel (Yike
zhaomeng binguan, Tel: 0477-8321567) on E'erduosi
jie, at the intersection with Dala'te lu. Also cheap
is the Minzu Hotel (Minzu fandian, Tel: 0477-8323269)
on Hangjin lu, at the intersection with E'erduosi
jie. Top of the range is the Tianjiao Hotel (Tianjiao
dajiudian, Tel: 0477-8333888) in the south of the
city, on Dala'te nanlu.
It is also possible to stay in yurts at the Mausoleum's
Genghis Khan's Hotel, especially good if you are in
a small group.
Opening hours: 9am-5pm.
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